October 2009 Archives

The little Black Gallery

ONCE UPON A TIME by Marina Cicogna 

until 14 November 2009 

 is proud to announce its show ONCE UPON A TIME, an exhibition of 

photographs by Marina Cicogna, sponsored by Fiat.  The images capture a moment in time in the sixties 

when Europe was the playground for the rich and famous.  It includes legendary names such as Rock 

Hudson, Greta Garbo, Brigitte Bardot, David Niven, Audrey Hepburn, Catherine Deneuve,  Jane Fonda, 

Princess Margaret, Onassis, Valentino, Niarchos, Cecil Beaton and many more. 

Marina Cicogna was born in Rome, the daughter of Count Cesare Cicogna, from an artisocratic Milanese 

family, and Anna Maria Volpi di Misurata, whose father, one of the most powerful men in Italy, created the 

Venice Film Festival.  Marina grew up to become one of Italy's most celebrated film producers, with films 

such as 'Once Upon A Time In The West' (Sergio Leone), Brother Sun, Sister Moon (Franco Zeffirelli), 

the Oscar winning 'Investigation Of A Citizen Above Suspicion' (Elio Petri), the Palme D'Or winning 

'Working Class Goes To Heaven' (Elio Petri), 'The Seduction of Mimi' (Lina Werimuller),  'Teorema' 

and 'Medea' (Pier Paolo Pasolini), and many others. 

In the sixties, the young Marina was very much part of the jet set, friend of the glamorous people whom she 

photographed without restraints.  85 of these pictures, lost in drawers and old albums, have now been 

compiled for her book 'Scritti e Scatti' (Writings and Images) which contains the portraits and their 

captions.  A selection of these images are featured in the 'Once Upon A Time' show. 

Marina Cicogna said: "What I am trying to do, is find through the pictures I took, places and faces that 

don't exist anymore, testimony to a time where all that was extraordinary seemed natural and eternal."

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by Milly McMahon

Ponytail #4 in ftape.com



Musing with Cody




Cody Ross of Priestess NYC

Name: Cody Ross

Age: 31

Occupation: Fashion Designer, PRIESTESS NYC

1. What does style mean to you?
Style is all about inner-subjective expression--the outward expression of
the fantasies and glamour that feed our dreams and reflect our sense of
life.

2. Describe yourself in one sentence?
A hungry, freaky energetic eccentric with a blond mowhawk.

3. What first inspired you to want to work in the fashion industry?
I love crazy art and have a penchant for volatility and change. While the
world is changing all the time and volatility is exploding all around us,
fashion seems far more non-linear and the magnitude of change is greater
and more dynamic. I'm attracted to fashion because of its unpredictable
and dynamic nature; I love fashion because designing new stuff requires
thinking from multiple perspectives. Fashion forces me to incorporate a
worldview that is nuanced and challenged--and forces me to embrace
'non-linearity' as a philosophy.

4. How do you want people to feel when they wear your clothes?
Different, authentic and cool.

5. Who do you design for?
A quick-witted and individualized girl who is a little outré and quirky.
She obsesses over fit and style, likes weird art and reads PONYTAIL! She's
modern and complex, has tons of confidence and leads many lives in one.

6. What other designers do you admire?
1. Bernhard Willhelm. For his ingenious pop references, his use of toysand
video games to trash and freaky-minimalism, he has a swashbucklingapproach
to design, hands-down.
2. Jeremy Scott. He is King of exaggeration and visual-razzmatazz. I
lovehis satirical and tong-and-cheek approach, especially his new stuff.
3. Rick Owens. For his subversive, sartorial style that is raw andrefined,
haunted and haute. I know he's a super-star but he seems toalways operate
on the fringe. His goth-androgyny is weird and cool.
4. Walter Van Beirendonck. For his audacious
shock-and-awe,fetish-fantasies, kaleidoscopic color-ways, crazy materials
and totalrejection of mainstream stuff. He's the maverick risk-taker --
and alwayshas been.
5. Marjan Pejoski/KTZ. Because he's the master of unisex and
conveyshappy-absurdity in all his stuff.

7. Where do you see your label in five years time?
I see Priestess NYC with a bigger international presence, probably doing
more stuff in Asia. Continued growth is definitely an imperative as I
continue to strive to rethink the parameters and determinants of the
industry/market. I hope that the label will be known for its creative
output with a focus on authorship and commerce and always challenging
conventional notions of authenticity.

8. What inspires you?
Integrity, conviction, courage. . .and my friends and fam.

9. Are you all work no play?
I work hard. . . And play hard too.

10. How do you take time out?
I love reading philosophy and mathematics and have recently dusted off 
Henri Poincaré's cool book, Science and Hypothesis. I'm also obsessed with
Benoît Mandelbrot and his work on fractal geometry and randomness. It's
great recreational reading and really helps to inform my thinking on
everything from physics and markets to architecture and fashion.

11. What is your must-have item for the season?
R O S S M E N U E Z designs a really cool label here in NYC called SALVOR
PROJECTS (www.salvorprojects.com). His limited edition printed/fluro
high-top velcro shoes are a must-have item!

12. Whats next?
I'm working on a few collaborations with artists/other designers and
focusing a lot more on developing directional unisex pieces. Stay tuned .
. . !

by Milly McMahon

Continue reading Musing with Cody.

Ponytail # 4 / Kira Lyllie

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Photographer Kira Lyllie Stylist Laura Taccari

Ponytail # 4 / Donald Christie


Photographer Donald Christie Stylist Felix Elisabetta Forma

Ponytail # 4 / Tomas Falmer


Photographer Tomas Falmer Stylist Charles Davis

Ponytail # 4 / Asger Carlsen


Photographer Asger Carlsen Art Direction Audie Umali

Ponytail # 4 / Kira Lyllie


Photographer Kira Lyllie Stylist Delfina Pinardi

Ponytail # 4 / Benjamin Lennox


Photographer Benjamin Lennox Stylist Vittoria Cerciello


Ponytail # 4 / Elle Muliarchyk


Photographer Elle Muliarchyk Stylist Sara Dunn


Ponytail # 4 / Mark Kean

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Photographer Mark Kean Stylist Mark McMahon

Ponytail # 4 / Julia Kennedy


Photographer Julia Kennedy Make Up Philippe Miletto

Ponytail # 4 / Philipp Muller



Photographer Philipp Muller stylist Andrej Skok

Ponytail # 4 / Fred Jacobs


Photographer Fred Jacobs Stylist Shala Rothenberg

Ponytail # 4 / Christian McDonald

Photographer Christian McDonald Stylist Nina Fenton

Erickson Beamon

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by Delfina Pinardi

Lanvin / Accessories

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by Delfina Pinardi

Paule Ka S/S 2010


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by Delfina Pinardi
Continue reading Paule Ka S/S 2010.

A Moment With Audrey Ang of Auds Jewellery

Name: audrey ang

Age: ahem!....

Occupation: accessories designer + it seems I've become regular st martins fashion design tutor

What does style mean to you?  
About expressing who you truely are innit?
In terms of clothes?.... dressing up to suit yrself.  Beautiful craftmanship, women in Alaia, a thick huge fisherman's jumper, a Yohji white shirt, and men in good suits is always a turn on.

Describe yourself in one sentence? 
Im midnite black  with hidden shots of multi coloured accents.  My St Martins students call me Dragon lady until they get to know me. 

What first inspired you to want to work within the fashion industry? 
Lotsa influences all to do with music and fashion mixed up.
Watching Bob Fosse musicals in film- I love SHirley McClaine.  ALL those Hollywood movies incl film noirs.
Monsieur Christian Dior.... I loved his elegant cutting.  All the tailoried suits and gowns for women, gorgeous shapes. Growing up in London during the 80's and buying loads of records from Beggars Banquet and listening to lotsa pop, The New Romantics: Steve Strange, Bow wow wow, Adam and the ants, Duran Duran, Soft Cell and of course Souxie + The Banshees, The Specials, Gary Numan, Blondie dressed in Stephen Sprouse. New magasines like The Face + i-D with innovative styling by Judy Blame.  Plus me mum always made me wear what she chose for the day and I used to imagine and draw what I'd actually like to wear.  Loved that documentry by Clive James at the Paris fashion shows in beg 80's..... I watched it over and over on me betamax video....Thierry Mugler was hot!  Thierry Mugler's Devil collection made me scream when I saw it in Paris on the catwalk.  He'd mixed music tracks - Prince's "foxy Lady" with "the omen" and the models were wearing flame-columned dresses with their hair worn as devil's horns. So powerful and inspiring in those few minutes.

How do you want people to feel when they wear your clothes?  
Happier, more confident..... more stylish.

Who do you design for? 
Men and women.... any age.  That's why after designing clothes at Yohji Yamamoto for several years it was so lovely to design accessories.....accessories are less elitist and less seasonal. They are also bought very often as gifts which is a special sentiment.

What other designers do you admire?
 
Yep, It's an 80's influence again!  Azzedine Alaia because he sculpts a woman's body with perfect seductive knits in the most sumptous colours, Yohji Yamamoto is so beautifully elegant and quietly strong....... can make you shiver.  Vivienne Westwood is unique. 

Where do you see your label in five years time?

Dunno. It started in Nov 08 as a little project for editorial, NOT for shops as a money making label. I think it's nice kept small for now.  It interests me to work with other artists. I'd like to do more collaborations... as I'm an ideas person.  I like other medias to express my ideas, I like my work to be carried away on a journey.  When someone chooses something I've designed, it evolves with the wearer's style.  I'm makin guitar straps for The Brute Chorus band at the mo. They're a great live band that I love...they've just recorded their album live at the Roundhouse.

What has been the proudest moment in your career to date? 
 
Can I have two? 
Firstly In, Paris, city of dreams, when i saw my designs walk out onto the catwalk, in the finale pret a porter collection for Yohji Yamamoto Femme.  I didn't know til that moment that Yohji was gonna use the ideas I had worked on.  I felt really honored to see them realised so beautifully. 
Secondly when the extremely stylish Christy Turlington + Kate Moss bought my handbags from my first handbag collection.

Are you all work no play?
Nah.......tho this summer it's felt like it, non stop work to the point of utter exhaustion.  But I feel older this year, quieter and calmer - not as immature as I usually am!  Maybe I'm finally starting to grow up!

How do you take time out?   
Now I'm gonna look very sad!........cuppa tea in Victoria Park by the lake and walkin along the canal,  dancin around the room to records cheers me up, hand-writing letters to me best mate Aidan and lately smokin ( too much ) in my garden.

What is your must-have item for the season?  
  
If only one thing I'd say Shu Uemura lipstick.....the best colours.  I have lotsa clothes in my wardrobe already so for me it's accessories.......AUDS BITCH knuckle duster ring worn with attitude, Falke colour tights worn with thigh high socks from Tokyo.

Whats next? 
Take more time for myself!  As my dapper intern Charlie said..... Time to be a BITCH and cut out the crap!  As for me collection I've gotta start researchin again but will collaborate from the half way point, more closely with Billa ( photographer ) and Richard Tucker ( graphics ).  I'd also like to work again with Liz Martins the amazing make up artist ( La roux, Girls aloud ).

by Milly McMahon

Continue reading A Moment With Audrey Ang of Auds Jewellery.

ROGER VIVIER


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Presentation Ines De La Fressange boutique Faubourg Saint Honore,Paris by Delfina Pinardi

Continue reading ROGER VIVIER .

VIONNET/VALENTINO GROUP

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designed by Roberto Paglialunga

Aurelie Bidermann presentation

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by Delfina Pinardi
Aurelie Bidermann

Continue reading Aurelie Bidermann presentation.

Comme des Garçons's - SS 2010

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Review from London London Fashion Week S/S 2010

Friday 18th September, Day 1.

What a start to the week, glorious weather and an even more glorious location. There is nothing like the sun shining and being greeted with a glass of champagne upon arrival to the London's Fashion Event of the year.

There are models left right and centre and I manage to catch Gemma Ward just as she arrives in her Storm Model Agency car. Almost everyone is dressed in black, sporting even blacker sunglasses.

To start off, obviously a ridiculous amount of people trying to get their passes for the week and the usual people who left registering right to the last minute (tut tut), after being seen to quite quickly due to my fast track pass I went on to go to 180 (one of the other venues of LFW), to make my way to the Estethica Preview. The preview was showcasing 25 totally ethically friendly and sustainable brands producing some lovely clothes. Highlights were: Rachel Cassar (www.rachelcassar.com), People Tree and the Oxfam DIY. The Estethica preview also had a talk by chairman of the British Fashion Council followed by exquisite canapés and even more champagne and networking.

Next across the corridor, off to see Ashley Issam, who is still very much designing dresses for girls who like to party. Peacock blue silk dresses and bubble gum pink were colours that were carried throughout the collection.
Next on the agenda is the On/Off exhibition. We meet a gorgeous Russian designer Georgy Baratashvili who produces an intriguing luxury label, which I can't help but think, is somewhere suited to us Muscovites living in London. Stunning clothes, definitely a designer to watch for the rest of the year.

Next off Somerset House and the main BFC catwalk venue, greeted by even more champagne, and we're quickly ushered to our seats. The Emilio de la Moreba show was incredible, oh the shoes! The shoes were amazing, stacked heels with multiple straps, patent leather and nothing less than 5inch heels. Emilio still showcased his signature bodycon dresses but this season they were shown as underpinnings for a softer silhouette.

Saturday 19th September, Day 2.

Nothing better than to start your morning off than to get your make up done by one of the lovely girls at the on site Mac booth. With my new feline cat eyes (courtesy of Tania @ Mac) and a good bag/ press kit with some fabulous Mac products we go and see more designers and wander around the exhibition. All the exhibitors will also be selling their collections at London Fashion Weekend which is also held at Somerset House this year.

The evenings highlight and the last show of the day is the PPQ show, with retro ruffles and A line silhouettes. It's trade mark front row fashionista's were all there dolled up to the nines.

On/Off party, free flowing drinks, Boy George, Alice Delall, Killa Kel, Soul to Soul played, everyone danced and relaxed oh and the party was sponsored by Party Feet so there were gorgeous Armani Exchange models walking around hanging out Party Feet goodies (which came quite in handy after a whole night worth of dancing).


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Alice Delall at On/Off Party

Sunday 20th Day 3.

Morning kicked off with a  free hair cut and blow dry at Toni and Guy salon on site followed by Nicole Farhi, Matthew Williamson and Unique. Today feels a little more relaxed maybe because it's a Sunday but it gives us a chance to give our fashion party feet a little rest after all of last nights dancing.

Wednesday 23rd Last day of Fashion Week

No other way to end the week then by a show at the Wilton's Music Hall, a half derelict old theatre which was the perfect stage for A Child of The Jago. A menswear label headed by Vivienne Westwood's son, Joey Corre. The collection was called "Terrorist" and was nothing short of the performance promised on the  invitation, Vivienne herself was there at the door greeting friends, family and of course photographers. There were gorgeous boxer dogs around and it was an all rounded very sophisticated affair. The collection features 50s swing suits, old navy uniforms, marching band outfits and incredible tailoring with "mask style" make up. The whole collection is perposly sustainable because the fabrics are all vintage reworks, and specially sources from dead stock materials.
 

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Vivienne Westwood openning of A Child Of Jago show


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A child Of Jago Catwalk

text and photography by Maria Zazovsky






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